If you explicitly ask for recommendations and they are willing to provide some, that can be a bit different and is often a useful tool to find good professionals. These are all conflicts of interest to generate more profit and are detrimental to consumers. And for goodness sake, don't use a home inspector that tries to sell you products and services or push you to certain contractors. Don't automatically use a real estate agent's recommendations for contractors when you know they get kickbacks for said recommendations. Instead hire a reputable industrial hygienist who doesn't do remediation. Sometimes though, there's just no need to take this kind of risk.įor example, don't hire the person who makes their income on mould remediation to do the sample testing and tell you if you have a mould problem. If you're in this position with a person you don't already trust implicitly, be very cognizant of any motives for recommendations. But most people are also wary about both professions and are always looking for honest reliable professionals in both fields who aren't going to recommend work you don't need. Or your car has a problem, you need a mechanic to do the same. You've got a strictly plumbing problem, you need a plumber to diagnose and fix it. U/ceddyced1993, to make it clear, if there's any other option, try to avoid hiring people to diagnose problems when they also make money fixing the problems, unless you know or were referred by somebody who knows that they are honest. Oh, it was a rhetorical question for op, but thanks for expanding on it. Even that I was potentially OK with, though I'd want to have a company come do it on a schedule, and such companies don't really exist where I live. I also asked about warranties and both contractors kind of told the same story: the warranty only comes through if all the T's are crossed and I'd are dotted, and for a metal roof, that includes some form of periodic maintenance that involves getting up on the roof and cleaning it. There's a different method (or something) that allows for them to not be directly exposed. I forget the term they used but both noted it's important with metal roofs to not have the exposed holes / fasteners, as that's where they'll leak (if they do). I think they came in around $23k (for a metal roof) where the guys I went with did it for $14.7k (shingles). I had my roof replaced last month and went with shingles since I didn't feel strongly about it and the HOA wanted shingles, but I did have the same guys quote it. In a few places, it'd get fast enough that it'd "jump" over the gutters and onto the ground. I know she had the guys back out to do something about the water routing. She definitely noted the increased noise during rain, and for a while had a few places where weeds had sprouted in the gutters. I’ll let you know in a couple decades how it goes. I don’t expect those shingles to last 50 years but hopefully I’ll get a good discount thru the manufacturer in 20 years when it’s time to reroof. I had a new asphalt shingle roof put on that has a 50yr, 1 time transferable warranty. Regardless you need to get a few roofers to give you quotes and explain the pros and cons of each product and it’s installation method.Īsphalt shingles are still around because they are very cost effective. I’m sure there are plenty of proprietary joining and install methods besides those 2. They use a machine to bend/seam the panels together. The more expensive option called “standing seam” if I remember right doesn’t have those screws through each panel. Then you have to pay someone to come back and replace ALL the screws. Over time all the little rubber things on the screws break down and it can leak. The more inexpensive option usually requires screws all over the place.
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